Just a few miles from Aomori’s capital lies Hirosaki, a historic city steeped in tradition and known for its iconic castle.
I first visited Hirosaki in the summer of 2016. It is one of the twelve remaining original castles in Japan, a rare treasure where the keep (Tenshu 天守) has survived since its reconstruction in 1810.
Originally built in 1611 by the Tsugaru clan, Hirosaki Castle played a central role in the region’s feudal history. Today, Hirosaki city is known not just for its historical significance but also for its apple orchards (the largest producer in Japan), well-preserved samurai residences, and vibrant cultural festivals.
I reached Hirosaki Station from Shin-Aomori in about 40 minutes by train. From there, a short bus ride took me straight to the entrance of the castle park. A wide moat circled the grounds, and the water reflected the surrounding greenery. The area was so peaceful, with only five or six other visitors around — perhaps because it was the peak of summer and quite hot.
I wanted to see the castle from the iconic red bridge (gejobashi 下乗橋) arching over the inner moat, a view often hailed as one of the most beautiful castle scenes in Japan. However, I learned to my disappointment that the castle keep had been moved from its original stone base just days before for major restoration work. It now stood a little apart, with the majestic Mount Iwaki rising dramatically behind it. Despite the change, the sight was still breathtaking.
I returned again in the spring of 2023 to find a stunning transformation. The quiet green of summer had turned into a dreamscape of soft pink. The park was alive with visitors enjoying hanami (花見), or cherry blossom viewing. I could hardly believe it was the same place I had visited seven years ago. The air still held the chill of winter’s end, but the grounds were glowing with the blush of weeping sakura (桜) trees. Petals fluttered down like snow, carpeting the paths in pastel hues.
Although the keep had not yet been restored to its original position, the magic of the season more than made up for it. As evening fell, I witnessed yozakura (夜桜) — illuminated cherry blossoms glowing under the night sky. The lights shimmered on the water, the blossoms danced in the breeze, and the castle stood quietly in the background, watching it all.
That night, I sat on a bench under a blooming cherry tree, soaking in the surreal beauty of it all. Hirosaki had once again won my heart — not just with its castle, but with the way it carries the seasons so gracefully.
